Hiking recommendation: The Serra de Tramuntana

Just a few hours’ flight away and always easy to reach, the UNESCO World Heritage Site Serra de Tramuntana awaits. A little paradise made up of mountain trails, dreamlike views, and lakes framed by mountain panoramas. We visited this oasis away from the usual package-tourism crowds once again to hike the most beautiful stages of the GR221 long-distance trail and give you an urgent recommendation to go hiking there.

Day 1 – From the mountain village of Valldemossa to Refugi Can Boi in Deià

Every beginning has its own magic. Unfortunately, on arrival in Mallorca, that magic usually consists of nothing but Schlager music and the drunken singing of young men spending their week in Ballermann. We leave the airport and take a taxi that brings us to the truly beautiful, albeit usually overcrowded tourist mountain village of Valldemossa for just under €40. The temperature at the 2:00 p.m. start is 35°C, so we increase our water supplies to 3 liters each. The GR221 trailhead is at the end of Carrer Oliveres. The route climbs steeply right away, mostly along old, paved charcoal-burners’ paths. There are now several routes to Deià.

We follow the path by the control house, keeping right along the mountain until we reach the top. About 50 m after the goat gate at the end of the path, an inconspicuous trail leads left into the forest. Just before the descent to Deià begins, our efforts are rewarded with truly spectacular views across steep slopes toward the bright blue Mediterranean. The hiking trail to Deià is only moderately visible in places. However, if you follow the cairns, you will reach your destination safely.

 Day 2 – Deià to Refugi Muleta in Port de Sóller

We do not want to take the standard route to Port de Sóller; instead, we choose the far more appealing alternative along the coast via the old pirate trail. To reach the start of this route, we walk down to Cala Deià. About 20 meters before the beach, an inconspicuous path on the right leads uphill. You are on the right track if, after a few meters, a sign points toward Sóller. This hiking route follows narrow paths, almost always along the coast. In some places, the path is poorly secured, and certain variations involve a risk of falling. I would therefore not recommend this route for a family hike. The stage can be completed in a few hours, so we arrive at Refugi Muleta early. We use the remaining time to relax and enjoy a breathtaking sunset high above the rooftops of Port de Sóller.

 Day 3 – Sóller to Refugi Tossals Verds

It is still 35°C, and today’s stage will be strenuous. Four liters of drinking water are heavy, but they are an adequate amount for the hike ahead. We spare ourselves the walk along dreary roads to Sóller and take the tram instead. From the market square in Sóller, we follow the signs to Biniaraix. The GR221 winds along the Biniaraix gorge on paved paths. Once we reach the top, we are rewarded with a breathtaking view over Sóller at the foot of the gorge, as well as a promising view of the Cúber Reservoir, which invites us to take a welcome break. After the reservoir, there are two ways to reach Refugi Tossals Verds. One is tedious and follows a water pipeline for long stretches; we take the other. The path turns right and climbs steeply uphill along a stone wall, whose course is already clearly visible from the reservoir. A refreshing wind blows toward us on the saddle, and a breathtaking valley lies ahead. We now descend mainly through the valley until the path leads steeply into the rock along a safety chain. From here, Refugi Tossals Verds is not far away. Despite the worn-out mattresses, we sleep exceptionally well.

 Day 4 – Tossals Verds to Refugi Son Amer?

We saved the highlight of the hike for the final day. We set off from the refuge and follow the GR221 towards Lluc Monastery. The trail now leads through an extensive forest, which is very welcome with the recurring temperatures of 35°C. The path climbs into the Massanella mountains; the forest ends far too soon, allowing the sun free access to bake us warmly. The summit is reached surprisingly quickly, followed by a long descent past numerous sheep until the Ma-10 road crosses the trail. The standard option would now be to follow the GR221 for about half an hour and stop at Lluc Monastery or Refugi Son Amer, but we want to make the most of the day and hike what I consider the most interesting part of the island: the Torrent de Pareis. We choose the descent route to Sa Calobra.

 Attached: Escorca – Torrent de Pareis

To get started, we follow the Ma-10 road. The trail begins at the parking bay on the left, behind a sign pointing to the Torrent de Pareis. We decide to hide our backpacks among the rocks and collect them later. (A taxi will take us back.) Of course, the trail can also be hiked with a backpack, but since there is a lot of climbing and jumping involved, descending with a free back is twice as enjoyable. Following the cairns, the descent begins after about 500 metres, revealing the first view of the truly impressive gorge. The descent into the gorge takes about an hour. The Torrent de Pareis is characterized by large boulders that must sometimes be climbed over and sometimes crawled through. It is a truly beautiful adventure and the finest way to end a hiking holiday. This part of the hike should be completed with sturdy footwear and sufficient concentration, as one wrong step can result in a fall of several metres onto granite. After about 3.5 hours, we reach Sa Calobra beach.